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Arampur
is a unique place, like each of India's 587,000 villages. It
stands in the Bhabua district (previously part of Rohtas
district) of Bihar state, about a five hour bus ride from
Banaras. Larger than most villages, it is comprised of
agricultural fields surrounding a core of dozens of
neighborhoods, each of which have their own character. Made
up of homes housing extended families, these neighborhoods,
or muhallas, most commonly vary according to caste.
Together with the fields in which many of its residents
labor, they form a village which we will call "Arampur" in
order to protect the identity and privacy of its residents.
Despite the diversity in the population of this village,
most of the people who live there identify themselves with
their village, often in proud ways expressed through
narratives.
As a
large village, Arampur acts as the nucleus for a
constellation of villages which will be refered to as "the
Arampur nexus." Many of the men and some of the women from
these villages regularly frequent Arampur's goods shops,
grain dealers, religious sites, various healers, and tea
stalls as well as the homes of family members. The center
for many of these activities is the main bazaar which
straddles the village's main road.
This
road not only allows farm tractors, jeeps, cars, rickshaws,
bicycles, and pedestrians access to the center of Arampur,
but also leads to the main bus stop poised at a crossroads
outside the village. Arampur acts not only as the portal
through which nexus residents reach the rest of Bihar and
India but also as a destination for many pilgrims intending
to frequent the village's many places of worship.
Where
the road terminates at one end of the main bazaar looms the
remains of a fortress. A slight road arcs along the gentle
slope of this mound and leads past a series of shops to the
temple of Shastri Brahm. Most Arampur residents quickly tell
the visitor about a brahmin who, when maltreated by his
patron, a raja, fasted to death and became a ghost who
brought ruin upon the raja and became the object of worship
in the temple atop the raja's defunct fort. Although some
residents disbelieve this story, no one doubts that the
temple of Shastri Brahm brings pilgrims from throughout
Bihar and neighboring Uttar Pradesh. Pilgrims and those
suffering medical and psychological maladies also frequent
the tomb shrines of two Sufis in Arampur.
Arampur
exists in a complex web of interrelations which connect its
residents to one another, their natural environment, the
region, their nation, and socio-economic forces across the
globe.
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